Showing posts with label Broome. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Broome. Show all posts

Wednesday, 21 December 2011

History of Pearling in Broome



Pearls are exquisite organic gemstones that have been cherished and sought after throughout history. Some of the most dazzling pearls in the world are the South Sea pearls and especially those that emerge from the sparkling, clear turquoise waters around Broome in Western Australia. The history of pearling in Broome really began when the large, pearl containing Pinctada maxima oysters were first found in Roebuck Bay in 1861.  These are very large oysters, with some of them being as big as dinner plates, and back then they were harvested for the mother of pearl lining to their shell rather than the pearls that they contained, and within a very short time Australia was producing around 75% of the world’s mother of pearl.  Any natural pearls that were found were welcomed as an extra bounty from the sea.  The newly founded town of Broome was to become the centre of this emerging pearling industry and South Sea pearls were initially called ‘Broome Pearls’.

Pearl Luggers, Broome


 In the early days of diving for oyster shell and pearls, before there was any specialist diving equipment, young Aboriginal men and women were used to do the diving and they had to dive naked which led to their being known as ‘skindivers’. They dived for the oyster shells in water that was up to 12 metres deep, without any oxygen, masks or snorkels, and with absolutely no protection from dangers like sharks. Many of these young Aboriginal people had been rounded up and forced away from their families and were held in very harsh conditions, and certainly did not receive very much reward for their dangerous labour.  Their brutal treatment and the dangerous diving that they were forced to do, led to the deaths of many of these young Aborigines, and this slavery continued until the oyster beds in the shallower waters had been almost completely denuded due to over harvesting and equipment had to be introduced that allowed diving in deeper waters.

It was the introduction of this specialist diving equipment that really caused the boom of the oyster shell fishing industry.  The invention of diving suits made of vulcanised canvas, with heavy boots weighted with lead, and huge bronze helmets, meant that the divers could go much deeper than before, and could spend more time on the sea bed enabling them to collect more of the precious shells. The pearling boats or ‘pearl luggers’ were mainly owned by white Europeans known as Pearling Masters, but with the advent of diving suits the divers themselves were no longer Aboriginals, but were mainly Japanese men.  Most of these Japanese divers were indentured labour.  They owed a debt, usually the cost of their passage to Western Australia, and dived for shell to pay off that debt and hopefully earn some money to take home to their families.  However, the Japanese divers were paid by how much oyster shell they could collect, and accidents and fatalities were common, so very few of the divers ever did manage to pay off their debt and return home. There are reports that say that as many as 50% of the Japanese divers died, with shark attacks and the bends or decompression illness being major causes of death. Another cause of death and injury for the divers and crew of the pearl luggers was the unpredictable Australian weather, and whole fleets of pearl luggers were destroyed by cyclones while at sea.



The pearling industry in the seas around Broome boomed in the early years of the 20th century, and by 1910 there were approximately 400 pearl luggers and 3500 people involved in fishing for oyster shells in the pearling industry. Broome was a thriving and rowdy frontier town, with a vibrant, multicultural population comprising of Aborigines, Europeans, Malays, Chinese, Filipinos and Japanese.  When the pearl lugger fleets returned to shore after weeks at sea, much of the crew member’s hard earned cash would be spent in the taverns and eating houses that thronged around the docks of Broome.  In 1922 the Australian government became very worried that the new development in Japan of producing cultured pearls was a potential risk to the market for natural pearls, and banned them from being produced in the waters of Western Australia. But by the 1930s there was a severe danger that the Pinctada maxima oysters were going to disappear due to over harvesting of the oyster beds.  Diving for pearls and shell virtually ceased during the two World Wars, and in the 1950’s the development of plastic buttons, cutlery handles and ornaments substantially lowered the demand for mother of pearl, almost destroying the pearling industry in an instant.  The ban on producing cultured pearls in Australia was overturned in 1949 and this was what proved to be the saviour of the pearling industry and the pearling industry was buoyed up by the introduction of cultured pearls in 1956 by a joint Japanese-Australian company called Pearls Proprietary Limited at Kuri Bay some 420 kilometres north of Broome.

The production of cultured pearls in Australia grew over the following decades and these days 60% of the world’s South Sea cultured pearls come from the pearl farms sited in the seas around North West Australia. These South Sea pearls are renowned for their size, lustre and colour, which can range from pure white through creams, pinks, silver-white and gold. The average size of a South Sea pearl is around 12mm, although there have been pearls produced that are as big as 20mm. Cultured pearls are created by seeding an oyster with a spherical piece of foreign material such as shell.  This bead then acts as an irritant and encourages the oyster to coat the sphere in a thin layer of nacre which builds up slowly over time. The hope is that when the oysters are harvested after a couple of years, the pearl farmers will find an abundance of very high lustre, completely round and flawless pearls, although the reality is that on average only about 20% of the harvested pearls will be flawless. The overall high quality of Australian South Sea pearls, however, is such that they do not have to be tinted, dyed, bleached or skinned.  They are just removed from the oyster, cleansed of salt and accumulated debris and graded for sale; their soft, glowing beauty needing no further embellishment. There are many showrooms in Broome displaying beautiful jewelry made from Australian cultured South Sea pearls, so go and wander around Paspaleys, Linneys or Willi Creek Pearl Farms showrooms to find your perfect pearl necklace, earrings, ring or bracelet.  If you want to find out more about the history of pearl diving in Broome, spend some time at Pearl Luggers or if you want to see where it all happens go on a trip to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm.

Willie Creek Pearl Farm, Broome


So what is the future of the pearling industry in Broome?  Unfortunately, the ongoing global financial crisis has dramatically cut the demand for South Sea pearls, which has led to the pearl growers in Western Australia stopping pearl seeding and production of pearls has fallen by about 40%. To produce a pearl the oyster shell has to be maintained in favourable conditions in the water for about two years, which is an ongoing investment in time and money. The pearl farms have done this to cut costs and survive, but the worry is that if demand for South Sea pearls suddenly goes up due to an improving worldwide financial picture that the pearl farms will not be in a position to produce enough pearls to satisfy the market. But Broome and the pearling industry have survived many catastrophes and unfavourable world events in the past, and will hopefully go on producing these beautiful pearls from the sea for us all to enjoy.

Monday, 1 March 2010

Choose Broome For A Great Holiday in Western Australia


Have you ever thought of visiting Broome? If you are planning your dream trip to Australia and do not know which amazing destination to choose, this pearling town surrounded by turquoise seas and silver sand beaches is a brilliant place for a perfect, tropical vacation?  Broome sits 2200 north of Perth on Australia’s amazing western coastline. It combines blue skies and hot sun with amazing beaches.  The town also has an interesting history, is surrounded by beautiful scenery, has a wide range of accommodation to choose from and lots of activities on offer. The contrast between the colours of the pale turquoise seas, the silver sands of the beaches and the deep red of the pindan soil, create a visual feast and are a gift to the photographer looking for stunning images.

Pioneer's Cemetary, Broome, WA
Pioneer's Cemetary, Broome, WA


Broome is an isolated town with a standing population of about 15000 people which swells to around 45,000 people during the tourist season, and is a gateway to the vast Kimberley region.   It has been home to the indigenous Yawuru aboriginal people for many thousands of years and the first Europeans to sail down the coast were Dutch traders in the seventeenth century who called the west coast ‘New Holland’.  The first documented land fall was by William Dampier in 1688 and 1699, and the Dampier Peninsula and Dampier Terrace in the town were named after him.

The area was visited by various ships and pearling boats in the following years and Roebuck Bay was put forward as a suitable port for the pearl luggers in 1879 by Charles Harper.  Broome officially became a town in 1883 and was named by John Forrest after the then Governor of Western Australia, Sir Frederick Broome.  The new town took some to grow and develop, but the arrival of the undersea telegraph cable in 1889 from Singapore and the burgeoning mother of pearl fishing industry soon saw the town expand and grow.


The pearl shell was initially fished for the mother of pearl it contained, which was used to make buttons, jewellery and decorative articles.  Initially the divers were Aboriginals who had been tricked or kidnapped and forced to dive without diving suits or equipment, in a practice known as ‘blackbirding’.  With the development and introduction of diving suits and heavy helmets and boots, the Japanese, Malaysians, Koepangers, and Chinese came to dive in Broome, with the Japanese being regarded as the most highly skilled. The onset of the First World War and the development of the plastics industry were major hammer blows to the industry, and it was at that time that the market in cultured pearls began to be developed and is still going strong today.

The region has two seasons, the dry season and the wet season.  The dry season from April to November is the best time to visit as the days are clear, sunny and warm.  The temperature rises in the wet season and the weather is very humid with heavy rainfall.  Many of the tour companies stop taking tours out in the wet season as the roads become impassable due to flooding and it can take several weeks for the waters to subside.

Pearl Luggers, Broome, WA
Pearl Luggers, Broome, WA


The easiest way to get to Broome is by air and Broome International Airport has services from most of the major Australian cities and a good local schedule operated by Qantas, SkyWest, Virgin Blue, Airnorth and Golden Eagle Airlines.  If you want to drive you can take the Great Northern Highway or the North West Coastal Highway from Perth or come from Darwin, via Kununurra and the Great Northern Highway.  If you have a sturdy 4WD and are experienced at driving on unsealed roads, you can travel the famous Gibb River Road.  The main thing to be aware of is that the distances you will have to cover are vast and it is likely to take you several days to reach your destination.  Greyhound Australia also runs regular daily services to Broome from both Perth and Darwin.

The town is also included in the itineraries of many tour operators and you will be able to find a tour to suit any budget.  The tours range from basic backpacker camping trips to luxury tailored trips in top accommodations and transport.  Many of the tours going out into the Kimberley also originate in Broome and again are designed to suit all tastes and budgets.  There are also various cruise lines that specialise in sailing through the gorges of the Kimberley coastline, which operate out of the town.

Camels on Cable Beach at Sunset, WA
Camels on Cable Beach at Sunset, WA


Getting around the resort itself is easy, as there is an excellent and frequent local bus service that operates around town and out to Cable Beach.  For any information you need about the town and the surrounding Kimberley region and about all of the tours and activities that are available, you can go to the Visitors Centre.  There are many day tours that you can choose from, ranging from town tours, to tours going out to Cape Leveque, Tunnel Creek, Windjana Gorge, Geikie Gorge and the Horizontal Falls.

There are many types of accommodation that you can choose from, ranging from basic backpacker hostels, through caravan and camping sites, self-catering units to hotel rooms and five star resorts. The main tourist accommodation areas are out at Cable Beach and in the town itself around Roebuck Bay.  The first resort to start up in the Cable Beach area was the Cable Beach Resort and Spa which was opened in 1988 and is the only resort hotel that fronts directly onto the beach.

Town Beach, Broome, WA
Town Beach, Broome, WA


There are many shopping opportunities in Broome.  As would be expected from a pearling town, there are many fine pearl showrooms, showcasing their luxurious pearl jewellery.  Look out for Paspaley Pearls and Willie Creek Pearl Farms, who also run tours to their pearl farm along the coast where you can learn about how cultured pearls are produced and the history of the pearling industry.  You can wander the historic lanes, such as Johnny Chi Lane, and shop for souvenirs or visit the modern Paspaley Plaza Shopping Centre or the new Boulevard Shopping Centre on Frederick Street.


If you enjoy eating out there are many cafes and restaurants to choose from.  They range from convenience food outlets like McDonalds through to fine dining.  One of the most unique restaurants in the resort is Matso’s Broome Brewery, which is an award winning microbrewery and restaurant.  You can enjoy great food while sampling the ‘Hit the Toad’ premium lager or their famous alcoholic Ginger Beer.  Most of the big hotels and resorts also have their own restaurants, and if you are out at Cable Beach you should give the Old Zoo Cafe a try.

Cable Beach is situated 6km outside of the town centre and offers around 22 km of soft, silver sand and warm turquoise waters.  It got its name from the fact that it was point where the undersea telegraph cable from Singapore reached the Australian shore and it is rated as one of the world’s top five beaches.  Apart from swimming, surfing, fishing and other usual beach activities, Cable Beach also offers the famous camel rides, watching and learning all about crocodiles at the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park and you can also search for the famous dinosaur footprints discovered in 1935 at Gantheaume Point.

Johnny Chi Lane, Broome, WA
Johnny Chi Lane, Broome, WA


There is also a smaller beach, called Town Beach, situated in Broome itself on Roebuck Bay.  The Pioneer’s Cemetery sits on a little promontory overlooking the ocean, and there is a cafe, toilets, showers and a camping/caravan park.  On a few days of the year the tide goes far enough out that the remains of the Flying Boats that were bombed in Broome in 1942 during World War II, with a great loss of life, are exposed.  If you want to know more about the town’s history then The Broome Museum is just around the corner from Town Beach in the little Seaview Shopping Mall.  It is situated in the building that used to be a general store called Newman Goldstein & Co and contains exhibits from the region’s colourful history, including local aboriginal history and culture, the history of the pearling industry and the role of Broome in World War II.
What is now The Courthouse started life as the telegraph cable station, which enabled this remote town to communicate directly with other major Australian cities as well as the rest of the world. The cable station was converted to a Courthouse in 1921 and is still used to this day.  On Saturdays and Sundays there is a popular market in the Courthouse Gardens, selling jewelry, souvenirs, local art and handicrafts.

Willie Creek Pearl Farm, Broome, WA
Willie Creek Pearl Farm, Broome, WA


One of the things that Broome is most famous for is the natural phenomena known as the ‘Staircase to the Moon’.  The ‘Staircase to the Moon’ is an optical illusion that looks like a golden staircase of light is reaching up to the moon through the night sky and is caused by the full moon rising and reflecting off the mudflats in Roebuck Bay at low tide.  It occurs between March and October on different dates every year.  Good viewing spots are Town Beach and the garden of the Mangrove Grove Resort Hotel.

So if glorious sunny weather, stunning beaches, turquoise ocean, loads of activities to try, great tours, and a good selection of accommodation, eating places and shopping mixed with a big dollop of history is your thing, look no further than Broome.  It could be your vacation of a lifetime!