The Unique Boab Trees of the Kimberley

Boab trees are one of the most famous icons of the Kimberley region in North Western Australia.  Their squat, bulbous trunks and spindly, often leafless branches lead them to being called the ‘upside down’ tree, as it looks as though it is the branches that are driving into the earth and the roots that are reaching up to the sky.  The Aboriginal legend concerning the boab tells that they were once destined to be the most beautiful tree ever created, with the tastiest fruit and the prettiest of flowers. But as the tree grew, its flowers were unattractive and the fruit tasted bad and gave off a bad smell.  The Tree God was very angry at this, so he pulled the boab out of the earth by its roots, and rammed it back into the soil upside down.

Boab Tree, The Kimberley

They are deciduous trees, losing their leaves in the dry season (March to October) and growing new leaves and large white flowers in the early part of the wet season.  Their binomial name is Adansonia gregorii and they are a member of the Malvaceae family.  The ‘gregorii’ part of the their name is to honour the Australian explorer Augustus Gregory, who undertook four major expeditions between 1846 and 1858 into the Australian interior, including one to try and find out what had become of the famous explorer Ludwig Leichhardt.   The Aboriginals have various names for the boab, including gadawon, larrgadiy and larrgadi.  They are also colloquially referred to as ‘bottle trees’, ‘gouty stem trees’, and ‘dead rat trees’. 

The Aboriginal people had uses for several parts of the boabtree.  Water was obtained from the tree’s hollows, the leaves had medicinal uses, the fruit was used to carve or paint on, and the white powder found in the seed pods was used for food.  Some parts of the tree, including the seeds, contain very high levels of vitamin C.  They are now grown commercially in the Kimberley as a food source, and it is the roots that are used.  They are harvested at between six to eight weeks of age when the root is roughly the same size and shape as a large carrot.  They are then sold in bundles like carrots and then after peeling can be sliced or grated.  Apparently they are crunchy and have a texture similar to a carrot or water chestnut.

They are very slow growing, eventually reaching a height of between 9 – 12 metres and developing a very squat, large trunk as they get older.  They can live to be many hundreds of years old, and it is estimated that some of the oldest are at least 1500 years old. The diameter of the trunk has been known to exceed five metres.  Some trees also appear to be split and it looks as if they have two trunks, which is caused by the young tree originally throwing out two shoots.  The trunks can also hollow out with age, and have been known to be used as dwellings or hiding places.

Boab Tree, The Kimberley

Boabs are the only species of Baobab that is endemic in Australia, and its range extends from the Kimberley into the eastern part of the Northern Territory.  Boabs that you see in other places in Australia have been transported there, such as the specimens that you can see in Broome and the boab in Kings Park in Perth.  All the other baobabs are endemic to the African continent, with six species coming from Madagascar and one from mainland Africa.  It is not known how the boab came grow in Australia, but it is believed that the seeds could have been washed over from Africa by the currents of the Indian Ocean, brought by sea birds or even early human visitors.  There is also a theory that they are a remnant species that has survived since Australia and Africa were both part of the ancient continent of Gondwana over 65 million years ago.

Boab Tree, Courthouse in Broome

There are several famous boab trees, and probably the most well known is the Boab Prison Tree, just south of Derby.  This is a large hollowed out tree that was used in the 1890’s as a lockup for Aboriginal prisoners, as they were being transported to gaol.  It is now a major tourist attraction and has been fenced off to deter vandalism.  The site has excellent information boards that tell the story of the Prison Tree and the Aboriginal prisoners, and of the natural history of the boab.

So while you are travelling through the Kimberley, look out for these beautiful and unique trees, and marvel at the natural icon that is the boab tree.

Exploring Lake Argyle and the Ord River in the Kimberley

Travelling the Kimberley

If you are planning your dream Australian vacation, then be sure to include the Kimberley region in your holiday itinerary. The Kimberley covers an immense area in the north west of Australia and encompasses a huge variety of different habitats and scenery. The Kimberley is an ancient landscape, and it is thought that the first Aboriginal peoples walked this land as long as 40,000 years ago, leaving behind them in their unique rock art, haunting and evocative images of our long-ago past. The thing that you will notice first when travelling into the Kimberley is how empty it is; it is still a region where you can easily escape any signs of other people and modern living. Then there are the stunning red-hued hills, dramatic gorges, pristine pools of crystal clear water fringed with lush green vegetation, the endless silver sand beaches and the amazing variety of wildlife. The sunrises and sunsets in the Kimberley are sensational, and it is one of life’s real privileges to watch the fruit bats fly out across the darkening sky to start their night’s foraging for food and then watch the stars come out and light up the night sky. I have never seen a night sky as big as it is in the Kimberley, or stars that are so bright.  The best time to visit the Kimberley is during the Australian winter months from April to October, as this is the dry season. During the rest of the year the Kimberley experiences the wet season, with violent rainstorms, high temperatures and humidity and with roads being frequently flooded.  However, there is one part of the Kimberley that even in the middle of the baking hot dry season has plentiful supplies of water, plenty of greenery and productive farmland. This is the area around the town of Kununurra that has been created by the Ord River Irrigation Scheme or ORIS.

Lake Argyle

Ord River Irrigation System

The vast majority of the Kimberley is uncultivated, open savannah, covered by low scrub and dotted with the iconic boab trees. Much of the region is divided into vast cattle stations, but in  1963 the Ord River Irrigation Scheme was started, and now much of this area is now fertile, productive farmland where over sixty types of crop including, perhaps surprisingly, a great deal of sugar cane. Initially, most of the farms grew cotton, but there were big problems with a pest caterpillar called Helicoverpa armigera. The farmers started to use a lot of chemical pesticides, but the caterpillars became resistant to them which caused the cotton yields to fall. This combined with a dramatic drop in world cotton prices, led to cotton farming being abandoned in the region. The Ord River Irrigation Scheme was formed by utilising the waters of the Ord River, which flows for 320 miles through the Kimberley, starting beneath Mount Wells and then skirting the Purnululu National Park, home of the famous Bungle Bungles, through Lake Argyle and past Kununurra before emptying into the Indian Ocean on the Cambridge Gulf. The creation of ORIS also led to the building of the privately owned Ord River Dam Hydro scheme, which provides some of the electricity needed in the eastern Kimberley.

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle was also formed by the creation of the Ord River Irrigation System, and it is the second largest artificial lake in Australia. Lake Argyle covers an area of around 1000 square kilometres, and an important wetland area called the Lakes Argyle and Kununurra Ramsar site was also created under the Ramsar Convention.  Lake Argyle has rapidly become a haven for wildlife, and now contains thousands of freshwater crocodiles and many different fish species such as barramundi, bony bream, archer fish and sleepy cod. The huge saltwater crocodile is also occasionally found in Lake Argyle, although as experts disagree on how many are present it would be wise to be cautious. A less welcome addition to the native fauna is the cane toad, a destructive invasive species of amphibian that arrived in 2008, having spread from faraway Queensland.  Lake Argyle and the Ord River are also a birdwatcher’s heaven, as there are so many different species of birds that can be spotted, such as White Quilled Rock Pigeons, Gouldian Finches, Purple Crowned Fairy Wrens, and Yellow Chats.  You can also witness the amazing site of pelicans nesting in trees, as they have to protect their nests from the voracious freshwater crocodiles.

The Ord River

Things to Do On Lake Argyle and the Ord River

This amazing part of the Kimberley has a huge amount to offer the tourist.  If you like messing around on boats, you can book great cruises on either the lake or to travel down the river.  Taking a cruise on Lake Argyle is one of the best ways of drinking in the beauty of the lake, the clear blue skies and the rugged landscape. There is a wide range of different Lake Argyle Cruises to choose from, ranging from early evening lake cruises to watch the sun setting over the magnificent Kimberley scenery, daytime cruises lasting a couple of hours and fishing charters can also be arranged. On all of the Lake Argyle cruises the skipper gives an informative commentary about what you are seeing and how the lake and the Ord River Irrigation Scheme came about, and delicious refreshments are provided. If you prefer to go cruising down the Ord River, you can jump on a cruise that takes you down the river giving you the opportunity to spot freshwater crocodiles, birds and enjoy the beautiful scenery, returning to Kununurra as the sun drops down over the horizon, bathing the land in deep red and orange light.  If you prefer to take to the air, why not splash out and take a scenic flight to enjoy the panorama of seeing Lake Argyle from high in the sky. You can also take longer scenic flights that fly over the huge Argyle Diamond Mine, the truly unique Bungle Bungle range, and the stunning Carr Boyd Ranges. This part of the Kimberley has so much spectacular scenery to offer, that you are bound to fall in love with it and return time and time again.

The Durack Homestead

As Lake Argyle is an artificial lake, when it was created it flooded a large area of land, covering any sign of the scanty human habitation in the area. However, there was one historic homestead in the region due to be flooded that in 1971 it was decided to preserve. This is the amazing Durack Homestead that was originally built on Argyle Downs Station by the Durack family in 1895. The Durack family were one of the original pioneering families who opened up the Kimberley for cattle ranching back in the late 19^th century and if you want to know what life was like back in those times then Mary Durack’s famous book ‘Kings in Grass Castles’ is the book to read. The Durack homestead, a beautiful building constructed of limestone blocks, was dismantled and moved to its new position above the flood waters, and all of the original contents of the house have been placed back into the rebuilt house. Even the family graves have been saved and put into a quiet corner of the pretty garden surrounding the restored homestead.  The Durack Homestead is now open as a museum, to show how these early pioneering families lived, and a visit is included in several of the tours to Lake Argyle.

The Durack Homestead

How To Get To Lake Argyle and the Ord River

Lake Argyle and the Ord River are situated in a very remote part of Western Australia.  Many people visit when they are taking a year or so to travel around Australia in a camper and there are also many tours that include these destinations, ranging from simple backpacker camping tours through to luxurious escorted tours. The main town in the region is Kununurra, which can be reached by sealed roads, although you need to be prepared to drive a 1000 km from Broome or 500 km from Katherine in the Northern Territory. If you are travelling from the Northern Territory, please remember that there strict quarantine laws when entering Western Australia, so fruit, vegetables and other agricultural items cannot be brought over the state border. Kununurra also has a small airport, and you can get flight from Broome, Darwin, Argyle and Perth through Airnorth and Skywest Airlines.

Accommodation Around Lake Argyle and in Kununurra

If you want to stay right beside the lake, you will need to stay at the Lake Argyle Village. This great tourist facility has everything you need for your stay, including a general store, fuel, a licensed restaurant and a visitor centre.  There is an area set aside for camping and caravans or you can hire one of the comfortable Lake View cabins. And just to make it even more special there is a new infinity pool set on the hillside, where you can swim and enjoy the spectacular scenery of Lake Argyle. If you prefer to stay in Kununurra itself, then you can choose from a great selection of great accommodation, ranging from plush hotel resorts, to self-catering apartments, camping and caravan parks and basic, friendly backpackers resorts. Kununurra is a small town, but it offers you a choice of places to eat, a great coffee shop, and several art galleries featuring the work of local Aboriginal artists.

Sunset on the Ord River

So what is not to love about the magnificent landscape that is the east Kimberley? Lake Argyle and the Ord River offer you everything that a tourist could possibly want, whether it is beautiful views, swimming, fishing, boat cruises, scenic flights, hot sunshine, great food and stunning wildlife. Add Lake Argyle and the Ord River to your Australian travel itinerary and I promise that you will not regret it.

All images my own

The Kimberley WA - Holiday In Beautiful El Questro Station

Vacation in the Kimberley

Zebedee Springs, El Questro

The Kimberley is one of those parts of the world that creeps into your soul. It is vast, empty and ancient, awakening the wilder part of ourselves that remembers a time when we lived in closer relationship with the earth and nature. The Kimberley is far away from the noise and bustle of modern life; a part of north western Australia where you can truly be alone, with only the clear blue sky above you and the wind rustling through the branches to keep you company. But, being human, we still need a place to stay and eat when we are on vacation and stock up on necessities such as fuel and groceries. And one of the best places to kick back, relax and drink in the stunning views is at El Questro Station. If you are looking for a wilderness holiday, you will find that El Questro Station is one of the most unique resorts in Australia.  It is a place where you can choose to revel in upmarket luxury at the El Questro homestead or, if you prefer, simply pitch your tent under a shady tree beside the Pentecost River.

Chamberlain Gorge, El Questro Station

How Did El Questro Station Get Started

Although El Questro is in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, it was actually the brainchild of an English aristocrat called Will Burrell and his wife Celia. The couple bought the property, which was then run as a cattle station but was in a very dilapidated condition, in 1991 and then decided that tourism may prove to be more profitable than running cattle, although even today around 8,000 cattle are run on the station. El Questro covers some 10,000 square kilometres to the west of Kununurra and is situated on the famous Gibb River Road. The station is mainly scrub savannah, intersected by red-hued hills and cliffs, dramatic gorges and four important river systems. This abundance of water means that El Questro is a haven for wildlife, including the fearsome salt water crocodiles. The Burrell’s sold El Questro to the Voyages Group in 2005, but it has now been owned and operated by Delaware North Parks and Resorts since 2010.  The first tourist accommodation to be constructed was at Emma Gorge during the wet season of 1992, and the wilderness park had its official opening in May of the same year. The next project was the building of the super-luxurious El Questro Homestead, which was completed in October 1992. This was followed by The Station in May 1993, which, with its stone bungalows and camping areas, is now the focal hub of El Questro.

Getting To El Questro

El Questro is open during from the middle of April to the end of October every year, which is the dry season in the Kimberley. Most people who visit El Questro arrive by road, and the wilderness park is 110 kilometres away from Kununurra on the Gibb River Road. Kununurra has a small airport that is serviced by flights from Perth, Darwin, Broome and Argyle, and El Questro does run a transfer service to pick up visitors who arrive by air or bus in the town. If you only want to visit El Questro for the day, you can also book a day trip in the Kununurra Visitor Centre. Of course, if you are very rich and planning your stay at the El Questro Homestead, you can pop in on your helicopter or private plane!

Emma Gorge

Emma Gorge offers a stunning hike through the rocky gorge and along the creek. The scenery is spectacular, and there is a huge variety of plants, insects, butterflies and reptiles to be seen as you walk. Your hike is rewarded at the end of the gorge by a beautiful turquoise waterhole fringed by a waterfall that tumbles down the red sandstone of the rock face.  This waterhole is the perfect place to swim and relax, and let your cares be soothed away by the hot Kimberley sun. The hike back along the gorge brings you to the resort, which consists of comfortable safari-style tented cabins, set in swaying green palms and lush gardens. To make sure that you don’t go hungry after your exertions, there is a restaurant and a bar, and there is also a general store and a laundry room. If you still have any energy left, you can splash around in the swimming pool or walk through the gardens.

El Questro Station, The Kimberley

Zebedee Thermal Springs

Have you ever been anywhere that reminds you of a land before time, a real Garden of Eden? Well one of those very special places is Zebedee Thermal Springs at El Questro Station.  Zebedee Thermal Springs is a series of small pools and waterfalls, set in the rocks and surrounded by green palm trees and lush vegetation. The water that bubbles up from deep beneath the ground is warm and comforting, and all you have to do is find a pool to yourself and stretch out to feel that you have truly entered paradise. There is a parking area at Zebedee Thermal Springs and a visit is included in many of the tours.

The Station

The Station is now the heart of El Questro, and is built along the banks of the beautiful Pentecost River. There are different types of tourist accommodation to choose from at The Station, and you can opt to stay in a comfortable stone bungalow or pitch your tent on one of the 25 campsites, all of which are very private and secluded. There is an excellent swimming hole to cool off in and the Steakhouse restaurant to grab a hearty feed in. The Station is also the hub from where many of the many activities start.

El Questro Homestead

El Questro Homestead is situated high above the Chamberlain Gorge, and offers excellent views down the gorge and of the abundant wildlife. The Homestead retains its air of exclusivity by being well away from the other accommodation at El Questro, and only guests and staff are allowed in its grounds. Only twelve guests at a time can enjoy the privacy and luxury of the El Questro Homestead, and all of the rooms are en-suite with a terrace. The most prestigious accommodation at the Homestead is the superlative Chamberlain Suite which offers spectacular views from all of the windows as the building is extended so that it makes it seem that the Chamberlain Suite hangs over the very edge of the Chamberlain Gorge. The El Questro Homestead is set in very beautiful and very private tropical gardens, containing a swimming pool and tennis courts. If you book into the El Questro Homestead you are guaranteed to receive superb, personal service from the staff, gourmet dining under the stars and a choice of tours and activities tailored to your needs.

Activities at El Questro Station

Of course you could come to El Questro, find yourself a shady tree and just snooze your afternoon away.  But if you feel a bit more active there are many different activities to take part in. One of the most popular is taking a cruise down the stunning Chamberlain Gorge.  As you go for a gentle cruise between the rugged, red sandstone cliffs, you will be given an informative commentary on the geology and formation of the gorge, the wildlife and plants in the gorge, and the history of the Aboriginal people who were first people to live in the area going back thousands of years. If you are really lucky you may see a large saltwater crocodile poke their head above the surface of the water, so don’t trail your fingers over the side of the boat! If you are keen on fishing you can join in one of the 4WD fishing tours and catch yourself some barramundi to fry for supper, or if you are a twitcher join one of the fascinating bird watching tours. To really get the feel for what it would be like to work on an Australian cattle station, you can go horse riding on a two hour guided trail around the property. Of course, one of the very best places to fully appreciate how spectacular the stunning Kimberley scenery really is, is to take to the air and see it from above. At El Questro you can choose from a variety of scenic flights or tours by helicopter that take you to some spectacular sites that cannot be easily accessed on foot or by road.

So as you have seen, El Questro Station encompasses all of the romance and beauty of the Australian Outback and then some! As you watch the sun slip down behind the magnificent Cockburn Ranges, with a cold beer or wine in your hand, you will be so happy that you are enjoying time in one of the most beautiful and unspoiled places left on our planet.

Emma Gorge, El Questro, The Kimberley